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Judging Quality: MetalsA well-made piece of jewelry is an important investment. Know what you are looking for. You know your car is in perfect running order because when you turn on the key, it starts up, and when you step on the gas, it accelerates--brakes work, horn, lights, check. But how do you judge the quality of a piece of jewelry without any expertise? Sure, you can borrow a loupe and take a closer look, but how do you know the piece is made well enough to last? We can't make you an expert overnight, but a little knowledge of how jewelry is made and what to look for in a well-made piece will give you some guidance when making a purchase. Wax Works Of course, with modern equipment, casting can be done much quicker and in greater quantity than in the past. But the finished products still need to be hand cleaned and polished before they can be set with gemstones or sold. When buying cast jewelry, look for a smooth, even finish, with no holes, bumps or porosity. If the piece is polished, the shine must be like a mirror, of equal brilliance on all parts. If the surface has a texture, such as diamond-cut details, a brushed or matte finish, it too should be smooth and uniform. If the jewelry is made of several pieces, you want to see a seamless joining of elements. For example, in a ring with prongs or bezel settings, there should be no visible solder marks and no discoloration around soldered joints. Any stones must be set securely.
Throwing the Die As you would with a cast piece, look for a smooth shape with no dents or scratches and no visible solder marks. Electric Avenue The ideal piece of electroformed jewelry is large, rounded and very light in weight. There are no soldered joints. The surface should be uniform and smooth and there should be no nicks or dents in it. Care must be taken when wearing or storing this kind of jewelry as it can be damaged easily. The advantages of electroforming are the jewelry's extreme lightness and its large size; a similar design would be too heavy or too costly if done using either stamping or casting. |
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