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Glosary 2

 

 

Watch Words

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Day/date watch: A watch that indicates not only the date but also the day of the week.

Deployment buckle: A type of buckle that pops open and fastens using hinged, often adjustable, extenders. Though more expensive than a belt-buckle like closure, a deployment buckle is easier to put on and remove and is more comfortable on the wrist.

Dial: The watch's face. In high-end watches the numerals, indices and surface designs are applied as separate elements. In less expensive watches, they may be simply printed on the dial.

Digital watch: A mechanical or solid state watch in which the time shows through changes of digits, rather than positions of hands on the dial.

Direct-drive: a function that allows the second-hand to advance in intervals rather than a smooth sweep for more precise timekeeping The French term for a direct-drive second hand is a trotteuse.

Dual timer: A watch that measures current local time as well as at least one other time zone. The additional time element may come from a twin dial, extra hand, subdial, or other means.

ETA: One of the leading manufacturers of watch movements based in Switzerland. ETA movements are used by many major Swiss watch brands.

Face: The visible side of the watch where the dial is contained. Most faces are marked with Arabic or Roman numerals to indicate the hours. Interestingly, when Roman numerals are used, it is traditional to use IIII, rather than IV, to indicate the 4 o'clock position.

Fly-back hand: An additional hand on a chronograph which moves with the second hand but, can be stopped independently to measure an interval which can then "fly back" to catch up with the other hand. This is useful for capturing lap times without losing the ability to capture the finish time.

Gasket: Most water resistant watches are equipped with gaskets to seal the case back, crystal, and crown to protect against water infiltration during normal wear. It is important to have the gaskets checked every two years to maintain the water resistance of the watch.

Guilloche: A style of intricate engraving that is popular on watch dials, usually very thin lines interwoven to create a surface texture.

Gold-plated: A surface the color of real gold accomplished by combining a layer of gold onto a basic metal such as steel, brass, nickel or silver. The thicker the layer, the more durable the plating. Thickness is usually measured in microns.

Horology: The science of time measurement, including the art of designing and constructing timepieces.

Index (plural: indices): Hour indicator on an analog watch used instead of numerals.

Jewels: The synthetic sapphires or rubies that act as bearings for gears of a mechanical watch. These jewels tend to retain the watch's lubrication better and with far less friction than metal. A quality hand-wound or automatic mechanical watch contains at least 17 jewels.

Jump hour: An indicator on the dial that takes place of the hour hand. It usually shows the hours by means of a numeral in a window.

Limited editions: A watch style manufactured in a specific amount, often numbered, and available in limited quantities. Limited editions are available from most fine watch manufacturers and may be highly prized by collectors.

Lugs: Extensions on either side of the bezel where the bracelet or strap is attached.

Mechanical movement: A movement based on a mainspring which is wound by hand; when wound, it slowly unwinds the spring in an even motion. An automatic mechanical requires no winding because of the rotor, which winds the mainspring every time you move your wrist.

Military or 24-hour time: When time is measured in 24-hour segments. To convert 12-hour time into 24-hour, simple add 12 to any p.m. time. To convert 24-hour time into 12-hour time, subtract 12 from any time 13 to 24.

Mother-of-pearl: The iridescent, milky interior shell of a mollusk that is sliced thin and used on watch dials. While most have a milky white luster, mother of pearl also comes in other colors as well--silvery gray, gray blue, pink and salmon.

Movement: The inner workings or assembly that makes up the main timekeeping mechanism. Most common are quartz and mechanical.

Mystery watch: A patented invention of watchmaker Vincent Calabrese and produced by Jean Marcel, a Swiss manufacturer, the Mystery automatic mechanical watch uses no hands to indicate hours, minutes or seconds. Rather a jumping hour window moves clockwise around a minute scale while a second indicator, an arrow, also ticks around. Gently breathing on the crystal causes the word "mystery" to appear.

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